Leicestershire & Rutland Bee Keepers Association    www.lrbka.org  ~   UK Charity number: 510687

I started beekeeping after being partly inspired by such a demonstration and I felt that this form of demonstration is captivating to the public and really gives a positive impression of our craft. I therefore began to experiment with ways of enclosing a colony to give additional security to the onlookers.

The first prototype used a standard netted gazebo costing about £30 and with simple modifications works reasonably well. The Leicestershire and Rutland Beekeepers Association have used this gazebo successfully for past three years outdoors and indoors and it has proved to be a great attraction. This led to inviting interested parties suitably attired into the enclosure to have a real 'hands on' beekeeping experience. Often the volunteers were children, and they tended to attract even more onlookers making for a great demonstration. You are no longer preaching to a disembodied crowd, but instructing the children who are actually doing the work. As we gained more experience it became evident that with minimal instruction on how to use a hive tool and smoker, the children could carry out nearly all of the work.

Naturally there is a very small risk of a sting (although it has not yet happened) and this should be explained to the guardians. According to the national allergy centre, anaphylactic reaction to bee stings is virtually unknown in children and only develops in adulthood. Also the older guard bees quickly trap themselves on the netting for the day and virtually no stinging occurs anyway.

With the educational value of such a tool we attracted funding from the lottery commission to build a more rugged version incorporating additional features. Our grant also paid for six sets of children's bee suits complete with wellies and gloves. Much credit is due to Brian Cramp and John Groocock of the L&RBKA for fleshing out the detail design and# paper chasing this through to fruition.

From the basic 10' x 10' square gazebo design we added an additional store area measuring 3' x 10' to the rear. This allows us to store all the kit and also doubles as an air lock in case of the odd escaped bee. A much larger canvas ground skirt made better bee proofing, and stronger netting, canvas and frame should give this new tent a long life. This tent cost approximately £2000 + £500 for the beekeeping kit and was built to our design by a local tent manufacturer who even printed our association banner across the front. Contact Graham Stretton at Umbravilia Marquees, Leicester. Tel 0116 2478204.

 

Now How is it Done?

Working with wild animals and bees can be hazardous and the author cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from the following advice, which is given in good faith.

Selecting and modifying a Gazebo:

A netted gazebo is cheap and portable and with care contains flying bees very effectively. They are available in plastic or canvas with the canvas being the better option although more expensive. Try to ensure that the zips are of good quality and the horizontal and vertical zips meet with the minimum of a gap. If a gap remains a small additional flap can be added.

Black netting is much easier to see through as it reflects less light - who owns a bee veil that is not black? If the only option is white netting it can be stained by painting on highly diluted black emulsion paint taking care not to let it run onto the rest of the fabric. Painting whilst the gazebo is erected is easiest. Leave the rear entrance unstained.

It is usually necessary to add extra peg holes, as the structure requires pegging down very firmly. Extra metal eyelets can be bought from camping stores and added easily by using a vice and a hammer. Fit eyelets every 300 mm and purchase additional pegs to suit.

Preparing the Bees:

Temperament is everything; do not take any chances, good tempered bees are very important. No novice should be introduced to bad tempered bees.

There is no point in having your strongest colony, a weaker, but healthy hive is just as impressive to the general public and there will be fewer bees to get back into the hive at the end of the day.

Ideally select a hive with:

	Healthy good tempered bees
	A marked queen
	Plenty of drones
	Examples of old queen cells or good play cell
	Clean comb
	Good brood pattern
	Colourful pollen and sealed honey in the classic arched pattern

It is great to have at least one full super to demonstrate to participating volunteers just how heavy honey can be. A couple of lads struggling to lift one super sure brings it home to the viewing public. It will also make it easier to get the bees back into the hive at the end of the day. See later.

Setting up:

Select a site that allows public viewing around three sides with plenty of space as crowds can build up to be 5-6 deep. It does not have to be in the open air, it will also work within a marquee, but do use sociable smoker fuel if so enclosed.

Erect the gazebo to allow you access from the rear and ensure that the front is well zipped up. Place the hive on a low stand facing the right front corner with at least 1 mtr (3 feet) between the hive entrance and the net. It is easier if the hive is 'Cold Way' (contentious point) as two 'assistants' can then work from either side with you in the middle. A trestle table can be placed on the left side is useful to put tools and bits and pieces on.

Gazebo set up inside a marquee at a country show.

Peg down securely then bank up a fillet of grass clippings about 150 mm (6 inches) deep along the inside where the gazebo touches the ground. As the grass obscures the light from any small gaps, this will stop tired bees on the ground from crawling under the edge.

Hang one large or several smaller sheets across the rear of the gazebo forming a backdrop to the ground. This is not for cosmetic reason, but to ensure that the rear is always darker which will discourage the bee from flying towards the entrance wall. To enter the gazebo you squeeze between the back of the gazebo and the sheets.

Take the colony apart for the first time on your own, assessing their temperament and lose the older flying bees onto the netting. It will also reveal the best combs for demonstrating with and save you time.

Demonstrating:

This is the fun bit. Don't worry about gathering a crowd before you start you will find that lighting a smoker works like a magnet and people will stop to watch. Having a sign up announcing the time of each demo can help to let people know when to return for the show. If you are comfortable you stand and preach, remember to project your voice to the furthest member of your audience. Do not be in to much of a hurry, take your time. Even if you have repeated the same thing twenty times that day remember, for your audience it is fresh.

A more natural and satisfying method is to enlist a few volunteers, however do not take anyone into work with bees unless: You have assessed the temperament of the bees on the day. There is no known allergy to bee stings in the family. There is no known allergy to bee stings in the family. The 'volunteer' is willing and not under undue pressure. You have received permission from the parents or guardians. Clearly explain that bees do sting, and although every reasonable precaution has been taken there is an outside chance of a sting. With careful supervision anyone can take a beehive apart but as emphasized previously good natured bees are required as knocks and bumps are inevitable. Kids make the best subjects and their on looking parents get just as big a kick out of it. Another beekeeper in the gazebo with you can take good photographs without the netting in the way. Perhaps the parents will lend you their camera for this special occasion.

Before starting be clear in your own mind what order you want to say and do things, but be prepared to change depending on the questions and interest shown.

As you are talking to the kids involve the audience by suggesting that your 'assistant' demonstrates by holding combs full of bees up to the netting for the onlookers to see (usually mum or little brother). Best to use a comb towards the edge of the brood or a super frame to minimize the chances of the queen being accidentally dropped. Most children are quite capable of removing the comb themselves and lifting the boxes, but be ready to pick up the pieces. Relaxed bees will lap up honey straight from a wet hive tool, kids enjoy 'feeding the bees' in this way. When your finished brush yourself and your helpers before you exit the gazebo. A fun 'Beekeepers Assistant Certificate' always goes down well with the younger kids (and some adults ;-). Try to give the bees a rest of at least 20 minutes in every hour, and don't worry about the clustering bees on the netting they will be fine until the end of the day

The Tricky Bit - Getting the Bees Back In !

The real trick is to persuade the bees to return to the hive at the end of the day. To do this you will need to construct a simple bee vacuum. I use one made from a 12volt car vacuum and a plastic drinks bottle with a screw top. This will gently suck the bees into the bottle without harm. If mains power is available a 12v / 6amp battery charger can be used to power the vacuum which can be easier than carrying car batteries about. A household vacuum is too powerful and unwieldy.

It is not necessary to vacuum the bees routinely, unless the hive population has significantly dropped or bees on the netting are obstructing the view. Normally, leave it to the end of the day and do it all at once. The flying bees will tend to cling onto the net in front of the colony and on the brightest side of the gazebo, they will come to no harm for the few hours of a live show.

At the end of the day follow the following steps:

1. Remove two adjacent super frames and shake off any bees into the super.
2. Leaving the super in place fit a travel screen or crown board.
3. Block the entrance ready to transport the hive.
4. Gently vacuum the bees from the netting and the outside of the hive.
5. When the vacuum is well occupied, screw on the top and switch off.
6. Hold the vacuum vertical with the screw top towards the bottom and gently shake the vacuum. 99% of the bees will fall to into the bottom of the bottle.
7. Now here's the tricky bit, disconnect the bottle from the vacuum and keep the bees in the bottom by gently shushing them around as is they were a liquid whirlpool. This stops them from flying out.
8. Remove the crown board and quickly pour the spinning bees into the gap previously left be the removed frames.
9. Apply a puff of smoke and briskly replace the crown board. The bees will settle while you repeat steps 4 to 9.
10. The last few bees can remain in the vacuum and united later when the hive is back in your apiary, also replace the removed super combs at that stage.

Check List:

	Gazebo with extra pegs and mallet
	Backdrop sheets
	Grass clippings
	Bee vacuum + charged car battery or a 12v /6amp charger.
	Hive with one super and bees (of course)
	Hive stand and working table
	Normal beekeeping kit with plenty of (sociable) smoker fuel- i.e. not tarred sacking :-)
	A bee brush to brush yourselves down before exiting
	Small blackboard and chalk to advertise the time of the next demonstration
	A badminton racket: useful for 'stunning' the odd escapee.
	If you are allowing public participation the following additional equipment is also recommended:-   Best quality kids or adult bee suit and gloves. Elastic bungee straps to hold any oversized bee suits tighter. A selection of different sized of Wellington boots Extra hive tools. Fun 'Beekeepers Assistant Certificates Anti-histamine cream just in case.

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